Your Puppy Handbook
WITH EACH AND EVERY CALANCLAN PUPPY
YOU WILL RECEIVE:
Information and care support
A toy or blanket that your puppy is familiar with to help them settle into their new and strange surroundings
A Puppy Pack full of goodies
Your Puppy's Vaccination record card if applicable
Their Microchip details so that you can register them
SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED:
Food and water dishes (Stainless Steel or Ceramic types best as can’t be chewed up and swallowed)
Food(Refer to feeding hints below)
Comfortable sleeping quarters, dog bed, doghouse, pen or a designated area in the home.
Travel crate or open box (for the trip home) if travelling alone
Collar, Leash and Grooming supplies (brush, comb, nail clippers, shampoo)
Toys. When choosing toys for your Scottie don’t be fooled by their size. Your Scottie’s jaws and teeth are very powerful and before long they are able to destroy small toys and could swallow pieces which could cause problems. Always be watchful and choose toys appropriately.
Plenty of old newspapers. Your puppy is trained to toilet on newspaper and will usually look for it. (This will make the next stage of toilet training easier). You will begin to see a pattern emerging, most puppies relieve themselves within 5 minutes of waking, eating or drinking, once you have removed the newspaper you will see them looking around for it, it is then that you take them outside. They will soon get the idea that that is where they are to go to relieve themselves. Sometimes placing the newspaper in the area you would like them to toilet outside can also help them get the message.
YOUR PUPPY'S DIET
You can rest assured that your Calanclan Scottish Terrier puppy has never been fed commercially prepared dog food! They have been given de-worming medication and received their initial vaccination however, sticking to a natural healthy diet should mean that your Scottie should never have to be exposed to such challenges to their wellbeing ever again!
I believe that mother's milk is, by far, the most important start to anyone's life and this goes for your puppy to. Calanclan puppies are allowed to suckle from their mother for as long as she will allow them to.
Of course, during your puppy's first few weeks of life, they have been fed entirely by their mother. At four weeks of age they began having a little warm mince meat to introduce them to solid foods. They then progressed on to a mixture of mince meat with pulped veg, a little flaxseed oil and some oats or lentils. Puppies are eating three solid food meals a day and a meal of warm goats milk at bedtime to help them sleep through the night. From six weeks of age puppies are receiving a chicken drumstick for their evening meal.
So when you take your puppy home at 8, 10 or 12 weeks old they have been wormed with a veterinary de-wormer at 2, 4 and 6wks of age, you can now stop using a chemical de-wormer and start adding ground pumpkin seeds and a little fresh crushed organic garlic to their meals which should guard them against parasites.
THERE MUST ALWAYS BE FRESH WATER AVAILABLE AT ALL TIMES!
I have clearly outlined what your puppy is used to eating so that you can make any changes that you choose gradually and avoid upsetting puppy's tummy and any unwanted diarrhea.
This diet was designed by nature! It ensures that your Scottie will reach their full potential and lead a full and healthy life. These foods support your Scottie's natural immune system and creates an environment in their digestive tract that is hostile to parasites. Their healthy immune system also ensures that they are well equipped to handle exposure to any bacteria and viral nasties they should encounter. Even though a good healthy diet and clean food handling practices ensure our Scottie's optimum health, it is always a good idea to observe your dog for any signs of worm infestation so that you can respond with dietary treatment. I have discussed all the tell tail signs of worm infestation in the other pages of this website 'Worms'.
I want to emphasize why you shouldn’t continue to use deworming drugs, either for prevention or to treat worm infestations in your Scottie.
There are many different drugs available and, like any drugs, they all have side effects.
And as you’ll see, there are many effective natural alternatives you can use, so there’s no need to use drugs that can cause side effects and harm your Scottie.
When you read about some of the adverse effects that have been reported for common de-worming drugs, you’ll probably agree it’s not worth the risk to your dog.
Scotties come in Black, Brindle (of any shade) or Wheaten.
Height: 25- 28 cm high at the neck
Weight: 8.6 – 10.4 kg
Life expectancy 12 – 15 years
Their coat is a double one. The outer coat is harsh, dense and wiry, the undercoat short, dense and soft. These coats make a weather-resistant covering for the dogs and provide warmth and resistance to wet. Another reason for such a thick coat is protection for the dog in their original work, hunting. A mouth full of hair was often the only protection provided for the skin when attacked.
Scottish Terriers were used to control vermin such as the badger and fox. Dogs were selected for their gameness and hunting ability. They had to be fearless enough to attack any prey, small enough to go down burrows, strong enough to fight their way back out and hardy enough to withstand a rough life and rigorous climate.
As with all breeds of any antiquity, the origin of the Scottish Terrier is unknown. All that is known is that in the 1700’s, in the Western Highlands of Scotland and the islands of Hebrides there existed a terrier on short legs with a rough coat. The breed was first called the Aberdeen Terrier, after the Scottish town of Aberdeen. George, the fourth Earl of Dumbarton nicknamed the dogs “little diehard” in the 19th century. It was not until 1879 that the breed was officially recognised as the Scottish Terrier. They are closely related to the Skye Terrier, the Dandie Dinmont, the Cairn Terrier and the West Highland White.
Taking Puppy Home and Socialising
Taking Your New Puppy Home
Finally, your Scottie puppy is ready to go home with you! It is always better to bring someone along to hold your new puppy on the way home. If you are picking up your pup on your own you will need to plan for the trip home. A travel crate is perfect but cardboard box can also provide a safe way to take your puppy home, so that he or she is not free to roam about the car while you are trying to drive.
You must have a lead and small size collar with you to pick up your puppy.
This is especially necessary if you are collecting your new puppy from the airport at 10 or 12 weeks of age. It would be a tragedy if puppy got away from you at a busy airport.
Once at home be mindful that your puppy is suddenly separated from their family and finding themselves in a strange place with strange new people. They will soon realise that they are on their own which will seem strange and may cause some anxiety. It may be necessary to have their bed close to yours to begin with so that should they start crying you are able to cuddle them for a minute or two before putting them back to bed. Your puppy will soon adjust and sleep happily. Be firm – puppy should NOT be allowed to sleep in your bed! Security is the key and a small amount of reassurance of your love will help them settle.
Try to discourage eager children from overwhelming puppy during their first days at home with you. Give puppy a chance to explore their new surroundings and develop a sense of security and confidence before too much spirited play. If a young puppy (of any breed), suddenly thrust into a new environment, becomes overwhelmed by boisterous excited children, they can become fearful and nervous which can negatively impact their social development.
Children must learn the difference between a cute little puppy and their toys. Puppies are living beings and children must learn not only to love them but to respect them as with any living thing.
Children should learn not to disturb puppy when they are resting or eating. You may need to supervise children teaching them how to gently stroke and fondle a new puppy. In time children can learn how to pick up and handle puppy. A dog should always be supported with both hands, not lifted by the scruff of the neck. One hand placed under the chest between the front legs, and the other hand supporting the dog’s rear end will be comfortable and will restrain the dog whilst you hold and carry them. Always demonstrate to children the proper way to lift and hold a dog. Young children have been known to “love a pet to death” squeezing and hugging a puppy in ways which are irritating and even painful. Welcoming a new puppy to your home is an exciting and challenging time for the whole family. It is Important to take time to supervise and teach children the serious responsibility of pet ownership. This will ensure that puppy has every opportunity to grow and develop in a safe and friendly environment.
Be aware that the first few weeks that your puppy spends with you, is the most important time in your puppy’s development.
Socialising your new Scottie is very important. It involves meeting and having pleasant encounters with different adults, children, dogs (puppies and adults), and other animals.
Your puppy will benefit by experiencing a wide range of events, environments and situations.
Any puppy’s first year is very important. Those that are well socialised grow up to be friendly and happy with people and other animals, and make very successful pets.
Dogs that were taken out regularly as puppies can take different situations in their stride and enjoy going anywhere with their owners. Dogs that like people can be taken anywhere and live life to the full.
Under socialised puppies grow into adult dogs that bite because they are afraid. Dogs that bite don’t have a bright future. Dogs that haven’t got used to lots of places and events, don’t enjoy being taken out.
The sooner the better, during the early weeks, a puppy will approach anything or anybody willingly and without fear. 14 days after puppy has had their 10 to 12 week booster vaccination it is safe to take puppy out into the world. From 12 to 14 weeks of age, puppy will become a little more cautious, approaching new encounters with trepidation, they will look to you for reassurance. It is valuable exercise to have puppy meet a wide variety of people, situations and other animals as soon as possible. Your puppy has already been receiving a variety of experiences meeting people as well as other dogs. It is important that you make a real effort to continue to socialise your new puppy during your first few weeks and months together.
If you continue to make an effort until the puppy is at least one year old, you will end up with a friendly adult dog that can be taken anywhere.
It’s easy! Take your Scottie puppy out and about, as much as possible and as soon as they have settled in, taking care not to overwhelm them.
Since it is particularly necessary for pet dogs to enjoy the company of humans, it is important that they meet a lot of them, especially children of all ages. Take your puppy to them, and invite them round to your house. It’s easy really, and important that you do make the effort to get on with it while your puppy is still young.
All encounters should be enjoyable. Keep your puppy happy by giving strangers small tasty tit-bits to feed, or by passing them a favourite toy so they can play together.
Watch your puppy constantly for signs that they are becoming anxious or overwhelmed, and, if so, remove them from the situation, or give them more space and freedom to approach in their own time.
Think ahead and try to prevent unpleasant events. Arrange for all encounters to be successful and rewarding.
Remember that young puppies tire easily, so keep encounters short, with enough time in between for resting.
A good puppy socialisation class helps with socialising and training, the class should be just a supplement as most of the work should be done by you away from the class.
Puppies are usually admitted to ‘Puppy Classes’ between the ages of 12-20 weeks and the entire family is encouraged to go so that all the puppies meet a wide variety of adults and children.
Finding a good class is essential as a bad one can do more harm than good (your veterinary surgeon may be able to recommend one).
Care and Training
Don’t forget to “puppy-proof” your home, both inside and out, preferably before you bring puppy home. Be sure to remove any potential hazards before you let Scottie explore and until your new puppy has learnt the rules, they will need to be supervised at all times.
Make sure household cleaning products and chemicals are stored safely out of reach.
Vehicle antifreeze (ethylene glycol) or radiator coolant is extremely poisonous to dogs. It is attractive as it is sweet tasting. A very small amount can cause severe kidney damage.
Rodent baits should be picked up immediately as they will kill dogs too. Puppies often find electrical cords fun to chew on with devastating results!
Make sure that your home is adequately fenced so that your puppy cannot escape outdoors and become lost or worse, a victim of a car accident.
NEVER leave your puppy or any dog in an unattended vehicle – especially in summer. Always carry water and a towel or blanket for your puppy or dog when travelling.
Remember how vulnerable your puppy is to disease before they have finished the entire course of their vaccinations. They will be safe to go out in the world 12 days after their C5 vaccination, which is due at 10 to 12 weeks of age.
Your puppy has a microchip that works to help your puppy to be reunited with you should they become lost. However it is your responsibility to ensure that you register your details and update them when necessary, with the Australian Animal Register.
Just because your puppy is microchipped, it does not guarantee that you will always get your puppy back if lost. A microchip does not mean you can disregard the importance of securing your puppy’s domain and ensuring that they cannot escape and wander in front of a vehicle or any number of other dangers that can end your puppy’s life.
Your new puppy has been trained to toilet on newspaper. So near your puppy’s new sleeping area you should put plenty of newspaper all around. Wait for puppy to wee, this is usually near a door, and puppy will usually return to this place. You will then only need to leave this area covered with newspaper. Of course accidents will happen!
Do not punish your puppy if they have an accident, this may cause confusion and stress and may cause the puppy to become reluctant to evacuate which in turn could complicate house training.
If you see puppy sniffing around take him to the newspaper. If you catch puppy in the act take them to the newspaper and praise when they go on the paper. If you are getting too many accidents perhaps having several lots of newspaper around the place so it is not far to go to find one is a good way to begin or confine puppy to a smaller area in the home so that paper can be found easily.
Once puppy has the idea then you can move to shifting the paper closer and closer to the back door. Whilst you have paper inside for urgencies you can be showing puppy to toilet outside right from the day you get home. The easiest way to do this is to get into a routine. First thing in the morning take puppy out on the grass and use a word like ‘toilet’ or similar and if puppy does go praise immediately. Once you choose a word stick to it! If you see your puppy doing their business immediately say your word, very soon your puppy will understand and will go on command. When you come home after being out, repeat the same procedure. Also last thing before bed repeat again. Puppy will almost always toilet within 5 minutes of waking, having a drink or something to eat, so use these times also to repeat this procedure. Before long puppy will understand that when you take them to the grass and say ‘toilet’ (or whatever) they will know just what you are talking about. They will soon know just where they are supposed to be going to the toilet. And you can remove that newspaper from inside forever.
Your puppy will start to lose their baby teeth at about 14 weeks. Make sure you have lots of suitable soft toys and DO NOT leave any ‘special’ items or shoes or thongs lying about! Sometimes chewing things is not about teething at all, this is especially true if your puppy is feeling lonely they will destroy something of yours and you will find them surrounded by the pieces – this is not teething, this is because the puppy wants to be
surrounded by you! Do not punish your puppy for this – scold yourself, pick up the bits, get over it and DON’T do it again!
All puppies display destructive behaviour. This is usually a result of your puppy’s teething and wanting to chew on anything during this period or it can be due to frustration at being left alone or simply an abundance of unused energy. Puppies are full of it, mischief and energy that is. Keyword is energy! The best way to cope with destructive behaviour is to make sure you include at least 20 minutes of vigorous exercise and play each day to use up some of those reserves. Luckily Scottish Terriers mature quite quickly and are very intelligent. I have found that they tend to work out acceptable behaviour and usually stop destructive tendencies by about 6 months of age. Of course to keep the damage bill, in the meantime, to a minimum it is a good idea to supply your puppy with toys that they can chew on and be rough with. Then the trick is to help them learn the difference between toys and furniture! Never let puppy chew on an old shoe, that is of course unless you are quite prepared to have them chew up your new ones, after all they don’t know the difference! For new puppies are just like crawling toddlers, anything within reach is fair game. The difference is baby will put things in the mouth and dribble on it, Scottie will put things in the mouth and destroy it! If you leave something on the floor expect it to be chewed. Of course everyone will mistakenly forget from time to time. I for one have lost several fabulous shoes, thongs, caps, wallets etc. over the years. If you catch your puppy chewing happily on something they are not supposed to, you must let them know right from wrong. Rescue the item and use a stern tone ‘NO’, show them the item ‘NO’, give them one of their toys instead and praise for playing with toys. When you arrive home to discover that ruined brand new shoe, that you didn’t even get to wear, don’t be tempted to go ballistic. Chances are that the damage occurred sometime ago and puppy will not know what you are on about. Your puppy may become confused and may associate your coming home with being reprimanded. This will result in puppy hiding every time you come home instead of greeting you eagerly. Leave the item untouched and keep a watchful eye! When puppy returns to the scene of the crime then you should seize the item and reprimand for the behaviour ‘NO’, puppy will know what you are talking about then.
Because Scotties are so intelligent, training can be an interesting clash of wills sometimes. All I can say is that one secret is to find the treat that will get them to do anything. I find nice juicy pieces of roast chicken works well. The key to training your puppy is to first train yourself.
Training your puppy to walk on a lead takes some time and patience. My advice is sooner rather than later. Get them on a lead just as soon as you can. I let them walk around with a lead trailing from their collar until they forget about it. They soon realise it is not going to hurt them and they get over any fear of the lead. (This should be supervised as the lead can become stuck on something). It is then down to a matter of wills. This is when you say ‘I want you to walk on this tether’……, then they usually look at you as if to say ‘you’ve got to be kidding’. But a little encouragement and the right reward at the ready and you will soon have them strutting around on their leads with their heads and tails held high.
This is a topic I could write a book about, and there are lots of good ones of those so I will let you do a bit of research! As I have already stated, you are welcome and even expected to contact me with any questions or queries.
Health and Wellbeing
Your puppy has been wormed at 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 6 weeks and 8weeks. It is now up to you to monitor your puppy and keep an eye out for any signs that they may have worms. By continuing to feed your puppy as I have suggested, they should not encounter any problems with worms. It is a far better option to keep puppy healthy and support their natural immune systems through good nutrition and healthy environment, rather than using any deworming drugs that all have side effects.
Your puppy has been vaccinated at 6 weeks of age. They will now be due for their 10 to 12 week booster. Two weeks after the 12 week booster your puppy is safe to socialise with other dogs and go for walks in the outside world without risk of infection. That's it! Now that your Scottie is immunised for life, your next task is to feed them a nutritious diet to help them recover from the adverse effects of their vaccinations. Your Vet will most likely keep you informed of when they think your dog is due for their next immunisation. The truth is that studies have proven that once your puppy has had their initial vaccine they continue to retain adequate levels of immunity from their for up to and perhaps beyond 15 years.
Stop routinely vaccinating. Annual re-vaccinating is unnecessary and compromises our dog’s natural immunities.
I personally choose not to expose my dogs to unnecessary chemicals. I include things like garlic, in my dogs diet each day to support a healthy immune system which repels parasites without exposing my Scotties to the dangerous chemicals . There are recipes for natural repellents and treatments using essential oils that are very effective and far less damaging to our little brave hearts.
Stop all flea and parasite products. These are pesticides and will damage your dog’s immune system. Use natural alternatives instead, how hard is it to add a little garlic and a splash of Apple Cider Vinegar to your dog’s meals. Put a little white vinegar in your dog’s rinse water after their bath.
Scotties love to eat bones but you must NEVER give your puppy/dog, cooked bones.
Cooked bones are hard and brittle and can splinter inside your dogs intestines or bowel
which can cause internal ruptures that can be painful and need expensive medical
treatment. Crunching on raw bones is very healthy, it provides much needed calcium in
the diet and very beneficial for dental hygiene. A dog’s digestive system is built to
process meat and raw bone material. You still need to be watchful to ensure that your
puppy is managing bones OK. Small bones can wedge inside the roof of their mouth.
When puppies are loosing their milk teeth it is just as good to stick to crushing up their
chicken necks to provide the calcium and leave the brisket and marrow, bones till their
second teeth are ready.
Scotties LOVE treats! Although it is tempting to give in to them we must be strong, we must resist giving our Scotties too many treats. Your Scottie must not be allowed to become too over-weight as this will seriously increase the risk of potentially fatal health issues. Many commercial treats are often high in salts and sugars, which are just as unhealthy for your pets as they are for you. Dried liver treats are an excellent choice. If you are really keen you can do as I do and dry my own chicken livers, they love em! Cheap to!
Home and Exercise
Scottish Terriers are very versatile. They can adapt to almost any living environment, from farm life to the inner city apartment. Choose a safe place for Scottie to call home, like a play pen, laundry room, or area off the kitchen where Scottie can feel secure and have some privacy, yet be observed. Take Scottie to their new den to explore and relax for a few minutes. Feed a little treat and praise your Scottie, this will help them to associate their new space with enjoyment. It should be a pleasant place to be. Ideally your puppy’s space should be one which allows puppy to observe household activities so they don’t feel isolated.
I have had a playpen in my lounge room for the puppies so they are used to household activities, TV and other household noises.
Your new Scottie will be very curious and interested in exploring their new home.
Young puppies need short bursts of play/exercise for proper growth and bone development. Do not take your young puppy for long walks as this can overwork their rapidly developing bodies. If you enjoy the exercise and want to walk your puppy, increase the distance very slowly, over the next 6 to 9 months.
Scotties love to run and jump about with little you can do to stop them, just try to be guided by your puppy – if they seem tired, let them sleep. Puppies grow when they sleep!
Exercise is an important part of any dog’s physical and mental health. Scotties love interesting outings. Walking or jogging is great exercise for both you and your Scottie. You will need to build up your Scotties endurance gradually. Short walks to begin with and gradually increase the distance or speed.
Warning! Always keep you Scottie on a lead when outside your property as they are terriers! They are naturally inquisitive and love exploring. They can become so focussed on such activities that they pay little if any attention to you and may prove almost impossible to retrieve.
Grooming Neutering and Books
The Scottish Terrier is a medium level maintenance breed.
Although they do not require large amounts of exercise
they do require you to brush their coat regularly. As long
as you are brushing your Scottie regularly you should not
have to bath them between visits to the groomer. Your
Calanclan Scottie has been brushed for a few minutes
every day to get them accustomed to the process. It is a
good practice to continue popping puppy up on a bench
or table and give them a little brush and handle their paws
and nails for a few minutes each day when puppy first
comes home to stay with you. The aim is to help your
Scottie realise that grooming can be a relaxed and
enjoyable time. You must however establish that grooming
time is NOT playtime. Short frequent grooming sessions
will help your puppy look forward to one-on-one time with
your undivided attention. You might encourage good
behaviour, as well as your puppy’s positive anticipation of
grooming sessions by rewarding them with small tasty
treats. Only reward puppy if they display calm and patient
behaviour during grooming sessions. Keeping up with regular grooming sessions during your puppy’s development will ensure that grooming does not become an unpleasant chore once your Scottie has matured. By establishing that grooming is a “good thing” you can avoid grooming sessions which become a war of wills or tug-o-war later on. Once your Scottie is comfortable and calm during grooming sessions you can drop back to one brushing session a week or as required.
Desexing, spaying or neutering
There are many valid reasons to neuter your puppy, however early neutering will cause poor bone development, patella luxation and possible urinary problems. Scottish Terrier puppies need normal hormonal development for normal growth, therefore puppies SHOULD NOT be neutered before 12 months of age. Once puppy has been through puberty they have received the necessary hormones to activate their proper bone development and it is THEN safe to have your Scottie neutered.
There are a few books available on Scottish Terriers. I think it is a good idea to read as much as possible about your new puppy’s character and nature.
I have found the following publications are quite good. I try to keep extra copies available if you would like to purchase.
The Guide to Owning a Scottish Terrier by Muriel Lee
Scottish Terriers T.H. Snethen
Scottish Terriers A Complete Pet Owner’s Manual Sharon L. Vanderlip
IF IN DOUBT GIVE MANDA A CALL ON 0438915650